Beginnings

I have always wanted to learn how to surf, so what better time to learn than now and what better place than here? I've been told that Hawaii is one of the best places to learn to surf, I mean after all surfing originated in here. It is also the most dangerous place to surf - the Pipeline on the North Shore has claimed more lives than any other surf spot in the world. So needless to say, you won't even catch me standing near a board there... I definitely plan on watching the competitions from a safe spot on my beach towel.

I happen to live a couple miles from Canoes at Waikiki, which is a pretty sweet place for beginners. I started surfing a couple weeks ago and it's been amazing, I'm in love. I began by taking a lesson from the leisure center at my school where they taught me the basics at a surfing spot near Diamond Head. I've gotten up a few times since in crouch mode, but let me tell you I'm starting to feel like a master paddler because that's what I spend a majority of my time doing out there... Canoes gets crazy crowded between the locals, tourists and surf lessons, so I spend most of my time paddling as fast as I can away from the incoming longboards. It's worth it though, the adrenaline rush is fantastic! My goal is to really know the basics by the time I leave here and be able to start surfing back home in the freezing waters of Rhode Island next summer.