Eddie Aikau Surf Contest

Tuesday, I went to the 2009 Quicksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau, the biggest- big wave surf contest in the world. The contest has been running since Eddie's death in 1978, but it is only held every few years because the conditions need to be right. The waves at Waimea Bay need to be 20 ft or higher, which measured from the back are 40 ft. Tuesday, there were 50 foot waves. Waves that Oahu hasn't seen since 1969.

Who is Eddie? Eddie is a big wave Hawaiian surfer and Waimea lifeguard who met his death heroically paddling out on his 12 foot longboard through 15 foot swells to a shore 20 miles away to save his crew. In 1978 Eddie volunteered to be a crewman on a canoe destined for Tahiti, the team's goal was to prove that the Polynesians had navigated to and from Hawaii using only the stars. On the first night the team met terrible weather and their canoe capsized, flooding their radio. Immediately Eddie volunteered to paddle his surfboard to Lana'i , but the captain refused. The next day Eddie asked the captain to go again, this time the captain let him go. The last time Eddie was seen was paddling away from the boat towards shore trying to save his crew.

The rest of the crew was rescued later after a flare they sent was recognized by an inter-island flight.

"Eddie Would Go" is a common phrase and bumper sticker in Oahu - it means go for it, and risk it all for your friends. Eddie was a hero, and that's why the biggest - big wave surf contest is held in his remembrance.

Waimea Yesterday

North Shore

I will never, ever tire of going to the North Shore. I probably go every couple of weeks, and I'm like a kid at Disney Land every time. People call it "the country," and "the country" is absolutely stunning. On the drive over from the South Shore you see banzai trees, pineapple fields, mountains and then after about an hour you get to the shore line where the ocean melts into the clouds. Someday I'll move there...

It's starting to get into the rainy season now, so the surf is really starting to get rough on the North Shore. My friends and I went over to Waimea Bay today, where only a couple weeks ago I was jumping off rocks, snorkeling and searching for sea turtles in relatively calm water. Today 12 foot waves crashed right into the shore, so I stayed out of the water and worked on my tan. Ambulances and firetrucks were on standby and every half hour the lifeguard got on the intercom to announce that "little ones" must stay out of the water if you didn't want to lose them forever. Only locals were bodysurfing today, and it was pretty much an all boys club. Every once in a while I saw a body board minus it's struggling owner flying up out of the water... pretty wild. Can't wait to go and spectate at the pipeline next month!

Beginnings

I have always wanted to learn how to surf, so what better time to learn than now and what better place than here? I've been told that Hawaii is one of the best places to learn to surf, I mean after all surfing originated in here. It is also the most dangerous place to surf - the Pipeline on the North Shore has claimed more lives than any other surf spot in the world. So needless to say, you won't even catch me standing near a board there... I definitely plan on watching the competitions from a safe spot on my beach towel.

I happen to live a couple miles from Canoes at Waikiki, which is a pretty sweet place for beginners. I started surfing a couple weeks ago and it's been amazing, I'm in love. I began by taking a lesson from the leisure center at my school where they taught me the basics at a surfing spot near Diamond Head. I've gotten up a few times since in crouch mode, but let me tell you I'm starting to feel like a master paddler because that's what I spend a majority of my time doing out there... Canoes gets crazy crowded between the locals, tourists and surf lessons, so I spend most of my time paddling as fast as I can away from the incoming longboards. It's worth it though, the adrenaline rush is fantastic! My goal is to really know the basics by the time I leave here and be able to start surfing back home in the freezing waters of Rhode Island next summer.

Waking Up As Early As The Birds

My roommates and I believe that sleeping in is a complete waste of time in Hawaii, and I'll tell you why. The most beautiful views on the island come with the sunrise and the early morning. Every touristy spot on the island is flushed full of loads of tourists from the Roberts Hawaii Buses after 9 am. And let me tell you, you're not going to like it when people rocking fanny packs jump in the way of your spectacular view. True confession: I have a mild fanny pack phobia.

I wake up as early as the birds because every day is filled with endless possibilities - Hiking, surfing, snorkeling, running, beaching it and of course my favorite activity: sea turtling. It's a new word that's soon to catch on... I'm like Steve Erwin, just replace fierce crocodiles with friendly sea turtles.

Putting Things In Perspective

I have been living in Oahu for the past three months and the fact that I only have six more weeks left on this island hit me like a Mack Truck today. So, this is me FINALLY starting my blog and sharing my traveling experiences with you fine folks.

My friend came all the way from Rhode Island to visit this week and we had an epic time to say the least. She studied abroad here a couple years ago, so we completed her rather extensive bucket list. Surprisingly most of it included food... so I took her to a few of my favorite places too.

The beach pictured is in my opinion the most gorgeous beach in Oahu... It's name? Well, the locals might kill me if I tell you, but I'll take my chances: Makapu'u. This beach is on the Eastern side of the island past Sandy's beach, you get there by driving down a series of winding cliff roads that border on the ocean. We took a rental PT Cruiser yesterday, but let me tell you... the real adventure is getting there on the bus. For a moment please close your eyes and consider what it feels like to be on a giant hybrid bus rounding James Bonde-esque roads that you generally only see on Subaru commercials. Pretty freekin scary. That's my transportation of choice.

Real adventurers don't take jeep wranglers... they take the bus. Or is that just what jeepless college students like myself tell themselves? Anyways if you come to Oahu go to Makapu'u. If you don't you will miss out on a heart pounding adventure, picture-esque views and a chance to get thrashed by some great waves.

Thoreau

Go confidently in the direction of your dreams. Live the life you have imagined.

- Henry David Thoreau